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Halibut

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At this moment we are in the middle of halibut season. Most of these fish coming into the market area are from Canada and fish regulations have been changed so as to be able to deliver a more consistent product to the market. When buying, check that the color is bright and translucent, almost shimmering. Check that it is firm (firm being considered that it is tight and not a Jell-O texture). Keep in mind that halibut is a soft flesh fish, not as firm as salmon, ahi tuna or swordfish fillets. The reason I say this is when the fish is caught it is iced down immediately. Sometimes the fish can remain on ice too long and become mushy. Also, this causes the fish to disintegrate when cooking. Look for brightness of color, it should not be chalky looking. They call this "chalking" and it happens when the fish go into the molting stage. This will make it mushy as well when cooked. Smell for the presence of iodine. The fish should not smell like this or have a fishy odor. If you smell the presence of iodine or there is a fishy smell this means that either the length of time between catching the fish and getting it to you is too long (fishy smell) and during the fillet process the bladder of the fish was ruptured (iodine smell).

Halibut is not a great fish for grilling but it can be done if you exercise great care and preciseness. Your grill must be extremely hot and the fish extremely firm. Do not fuss with it when it is on the grill - two turns and it is done. I cook it on one side until it is three quarters done before I turn it. That means 8-10 minutes on the skin side and then turn it on the flesh side for 3-5 minutes.

The best and most fool proof way to prepare halibut is pan searing, baking or a combo. The combo is actually my favorite way to cook it. Pan searing technique is done by using a good sauté skillet. A non-stick skillet is acceptable. Lightly season the fish with whatever herbs you like, sprinkle with kosher salt and fresh cracked pepper. Place 1 T. or more (depending on skillet size - you want an eighth of an inch of olive oil in your skillet). I prefer using extra virgin olive oil. When the oil is hot or dancing in the skillet place the fish skin side down and cook for 6 minutes. Turn over and cook for 5 minutes. Turn back over and squeeze fresh lemon juice over it, place in a 350 degree oven for 8 - 10 minutes. Keep in mind that times are based upon a one and a half inch to two inch fillet. You may have to adjust times.

When baking halibut it probably is the most fool proof and has the least maintenance. It is simply done by using a casserole dish. Rub the dish with olive oil or unsalted European-style butter. Season the fish as above and place in the casserole. Put a pat of butter on top and squeeze fresh lemon or lime juice over. (Instead of the citrus Karen likes to use a T. of sherry wine vinegar. It gives a great flavor.) Place the fish in a 375 degree oven for 12-15 minutes and you are off and running.
Swordfish

Swordfish is another very popular consumer fish but also a fish with a lot of concerns. Swordfish has been identified as one of the species heavy with mercury and thus the FDA has issued a consumer warning regarding the consumption of this fish.

Here are some helpful hints to avoid any potential health hazards. One it is important when you buy this fish that it comes from a rather small fish (80 pounds or less). The reason for this is that the larger fish has a higher mercury count. The smaller one has minimal traces of mercury. Secondly, they have an informal/formal grading system for swordfish which is very similar to that of ahi tuna. Grade 1 is sushi grade and grade 2 is close to sushi grade but it has some flaws. These two grades are the most preferable to purchase.

I do not serve swordfish on a regular basis in the restaurant because it is hard to purchase these grades from local fish distributors. However, I do have success buying from Hawaii and Florida. We'll give you the Web sites of three businesses where you can purchase these fish and many other varieties from those regions. If you don't have access to a computer I will also supply telephone numbers. Both of these companies have overnight shipping and consumer retail divisions. These companies are a valuable resource for you.

When purchasing this fish it must be bright and translucent and the blood line, generally in the middle or if the fillet is cut in half on the side, must be a bright reddish orange in color. If it is brown, dark, and the flesh gray and dull looking it is not particularly fresh or it has been frozen and thawed. Most swordfish coming into this area is from Thailand or the waters in and around that area. I can't emphasize enough the importance of buying absolutely the best fish on the market.

Typically, these fish are large so you have to careful because of the mercury count. But if you find the right fish, preparation is rather easy. If the fish has not already been cut into steaks cut your steaks to one inch in thickness. Pat dry with a clean paper towel. Do a light rub of medium grind sea salt or kosher salt, fresh ground pepper and a little finely chopped garlic. Also, any fresh herbs would do nicely. I like lemon balm or dill.

Swordfish is great for the barbecue. Make sure your coals and the grates are very hot. Lightly rub the swordfish with olive oil and place on the grill for 8 minutes per side. The fish should be cooked medium-well to well unless you've purchased number-one grade which can be cooked medium rare to medium.

Pan searing or broasting is also a good way to prepare this fish. This preparation is done by using the same seasoning as I have given above or coating both sides with a good Pomeroy mustard (French whole grain mustard). In either case place in a skillet over medium-high heat with a quarter inch of olive oil (not extra virgin olive oil) and cook for 5 minutes per side. Cover, turn the heat to low and cook for 5 more minutes. The steam will finish the cooking process and deliver a delicious, moist product (one of our most popular preparations is broasting). At the end of this process immediately remove the cover and squeeze fresh lemon juice over the top and recover for 2 minutes to allow the lemon juice and essence to seep into the swordfish. Turn heat off immediately after spritzing with the lemon juice. Serve and enjoy.

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